Understanding & Caring for 4C Hair
From our earliest ancestors to today, hair has carried both function and symbolism. Hair texture is inherited, shaped by the form of the follicle itself. Round follicles gave rise to straight strands, while oval, oblong, and flat follicles gave rise to, respectively, waves, curls, and coils. Studies of ancient human lineages reveal that the first anatomically modern humans—Homo sapiens—were crowned with coily hair, linking this texture to the roots of humankind.
Curly hair is defined by the bends along the length of a strand. The more frequent and closely spaced these bends are, whether round or angular, the curlier, coilier or kinkier the hair will be. Within this universe lies type 4 hair, which can also be coarse or fine, thick or thin, high, medium or low porosity, or a mixture of all of these. Yet one truth echoes across its variations: the tighter the curl, the greater its need for moisture.
4C hair consists of tightly woven zigzag bends, which create its crinkly texture. However, these bends prevent the scalp’s protective oil, sebum, from traveling smoothly down the shaft, leaving the strands uncoated and vulnerable.
The cuticles positioned at these angles may also be raised, creating gaps that allow the moisture inside the hairs cortex to escape. Raised cuticles are a hallmark of high porosity hair which, along with the absence of sebum, can cause strands to latch onto adjacent strands and become intertwined or matted, making the process of separating them, or detangling, challenging.
At Qhemet, we draw upon the time-tested wisdom of Afro-Ayurvedic hair care traditions to deliver the nutrients, moisture and detangling this beautiful texture needs to grow and thrive. Check out the products and techniques below to help your crown reach its full potential.
Step 1: Scalp Care
The scalp, like the skin, is vulnerable to damage from poor care and low-quality products. A healthy scalp and nourished follicles are the foundation for strong, thriving hair. The treatments below are formulated to support both compromised scalps in need of soothing repair and healthy scalps in need of extra nourishment to encourage thickness and regrowth.
Our plant-based MSM + Rosemary Scalp Nutrients Balm combines MSM, a research-backed nutraceutical, with time-honored herbs and oils like Rosemary, Bhringraj, Amla and Castor, to calm irritation and restore scalp balance. Applied directly to the scalp, it helps nourish follicles, support growth, reduce flaking and ease the itch associated with protective styles.
For a healthy scalp, our 100% vegan, mineral oil-free Castor & Amla Nourishing Pomade supports thickness and growth while adding softness, pliability, and lasting sheen to dry, coarse, and dull strands.
The practice of applying herbal medicaments to the scalp is a centuries-old tradition passed down from our ancestors, who understood that a healthy scalp is essential to achieving healthy, abundant hair.
Step 2: Proper Detangling
Detangling matted hair can be a painful, frustrating process when you're not equipped with the right tools, techniques and products. To reduce the time and effort it takes to restore your crown to a manageable coif that you can glide your fingers through without resistance, you'll need our Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee, a multi-functional conditioner capable of both moisturizing and detangling hair. Our Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee is a rich cream formulated specifically for 4C hair that contains detangling and conditioning agents that simultaneously wet the hair, flatten the cuticles and elongate it by weighing it down. Using a detangler with these 3 features is essential to detangling 4C hair.
Using a thin tooth comb or combing 4C hair while dry, without a creamy detangler, will lead to split ends, excessive pulling and traction alopecia which is hair loss caused by tissue trauma and scarring of the hair follicles. Instead, reach for our Detangling Brush & Scalp Massager. Its flexible bristles gently separate kinks and coils without unnecessary tension, while the massaging side helps stimulate circulation at the scalp.
Step 3: Effective Moisturizing
Our richest leave-in moisturizer, the Amla & Olive Heavy Cream, was created specifically for high porosity 4C hair and is designed to infuse and lock moisture into the thickest, driest hair for 24 hours+ without the need to remoisturize. Pair it with the Castor & Moringa Softening Serum to smooth cuticles, seal ends, add sheen and combat breakage. This duo keeps dry hair slippery, tangle-free, and dewy soft. You'll be amazed at how supple your hair feels afterwards.
Step 4: Minimal Manipulation & Overnight Protection
Many people mistakenly believe that because 4C hair has a crinkly texture and feels dense, it’s tough and can be handled roughly. In truth, 4C hair is the most fragile and delicate of all textures, breaking easily from aggressive combing, high-traction styles, and harsh chemical treatments. Without sufficient moisture, it becomes brittle, leading to hair that appears perpetually dry, dull, and short despite growing at a consistent rate.
Beyond daily hydration, protecting your hair while you rest is equally important. Our satin sleep cap helps maintain softness overnight, sealing in moisture and preventing friction that can cause split ends, breakage and exacerbate thinning.
This texture is the healthiest when it's well-moisturized, gently handled, and worn in protective styles like two-strand twists, flat twists, low-tension braids, cornrows, plaits, and locs. On average, type 4 hair grows about 4 inches per year—so with a healthy scalp, proper moisture, and minimal manipulation, you can expect up to 20 inches of new growth in 5 years.
Step 5. Consistency
With the right care, long, healthy hair is absolutely attainable for everyone with 4C hair. Sticking with a routine that consists of the following products and tools, will go a long way in helping you reach these goals:
- ✨ A non-stripping, sulfate-free shampoo, see our Egyptian Wheatgrass Cleansing Tea.
- 🌱 A nourishing scalp pomade that'll keep your follicles healthy and boost growth, see our growth products and teatment pomades.
- 🪮 A rich, creamy detangler that allows you to effectively detangle your hair with minimal shedding, see our Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee,
- 💦 A heavy duty, 24+ hour moisturizer that effectively infuses and locks-in moisture, see our Amla & Olive Heavy Cream.
- 💧A thick, hydrating oil to seal in the moisture and add sheen, see our Castor & Moringa Softening Serum.
- ➿️ A gentle detangling brush for 4C hair that releases knots to allow smooth combing, see our Detangling Brush & Scalp Massager.
- 🎀 A satiny soft sleep cap to reduce friction between your hair and pillowcase, preventing moisture loss and breakage; see our Sleep Cap.
- 👩🏾 Long lasting, low tension, protective styles.
